11-26-05

well lets see. I took off yeserday for Guatemala City in the morning. It was a high rise over the mountain to the city from Antigua. It only took a little under an hour to get over but I had to stop and ride through a couple of little towns on the way over. The little towns seem to be all native and I don’t think I saw any European types but there were a couple of the gated communities I think that could be European occupied.
I made it to the outskirts where I met Esturado and he led me into town and we stopped at the bmw dealer. We were very lucky to get to meet the owner as he had just come in from Europe the day before.
Bmw-shop-owner X

He is a really nice man and we talked with him for almost an hour. He just got back froma trip to Terra del Fuego last year. The most amazing thing about it is that he is 71 years old now. He is ten years older than I am and I figured I was almost too old to be doing this kind of crazy shit. Gosh, I may have ten more years of this coming up. Wow. He said he only went down once and that was way down in southern Chile where the road is very bad and the wind actually blew him over.
After the bmw owner we went out to eat and Estuardo led me to a very nice Guatemalan restaurant because when he asked what I wanted to eat I said I wanted to eat Guatemalan food. We had a very good and lots of it, sort of a chicken with vegetable soup with rice and tortillas. I was stuffed when I walked out. He then took me over to the Biltmore a 5 star hotel where he bought me a room for the night. I guess the bmw guys business has a special for bmw riders and Estuardo was able to tap into that. Yikes, what a room. I have never been in a 5 star before and it was really nice. Oh, I need to correct the name of his daughter, it is not Lisa but Leslie. She is a really nice young lady and I sure want to apologize to her for getting her name wrong.
5 star hotel X

I took a cab over to the Mayan museum and unfortunately I had only about a half hour before they closed. I ran through it quite fast but took a bunch of photos which I am not sure was ok, but no one was watching. I took quite a few and will post a couple of nice ones. I hear they have a huge collection in the back rooms but they did have a few nice pieces out on display.
Mayan X




It had a big tv with must have been 80 channels. I finally switched back and forth between the cnn, fox and the bbc for news that I have been away from while I have been down here. Sounds like the same o shit only now there is Christmas advertising. I really don’t like tv especially around Christmas.
I took advantage of the hot water and did my laundry. I had been living in the same shirt and pants for a week or more so it was time. This nylon stuff dries out nice overnight. My wool content sox need a little more time so I packed them in the tank bag where they will dry out.

Esturado met me in the morning and he led me out of town on his bike. He has had it since 87 I think it was and he sure rides it smooth and easy. It sure has been taken well cared for. It is a Cagiva and it the Elephant 650 model.
Estuardo bike X
oops, i dont have the bike photo with me so here is a local police car. they put car tires on them and really scoot around town.

It has a ducati engine in it and he says it is really a strong runner. He has a smaller dirt bike for his enduro riding. He led me maybe ten miles out of town and we climed from some fog up to the beautiful sunny day. It turned out to be one of the best days of riding I have had. It was cool in the morning and nice in the afternoon. I had to go through the border at El Salvador and that took about 45 minutes or so. I did have a kid come along and help me and gave him five bucks for helping. I asked before what the price would be and he said what ever I thought it was worth. I could have done it myself but five bucks wont hurt me and I am sure it will help him. I had to switch back into dollars from Quetzals and now I have old usa dollars in my pocket. Damn things are worth more now I guess with the dollar rising in value so I had pay more quetzals for them. I have no idea how bad I got ripped on the exchange because I didn’t check the exchange rate on the internet before I did it.
As I was heading down the road after crossing into El Salvador I had to stop and take this photo of a woman filling water jugs at a communal water spigot. You can see the padding that she is wearing on her head. A young woman just left with one of these jugs on her head. I don’t know what one weighs but it must be quite a load for the head. it must be five gallons.
Water gal X
i guess they must limit to five or six photos so no more photos. maybe i can post again the photos.
I stopped at this gas station to fuel up. Esturado had told me that it was cheaper in Guatemala and it was by maybe thirty to forty cents. It is the Christmas season and I must be right in style.
Santa bike X

I made it to La Salvador capitol city and it is big and confusing. I finally found myself on a little road that started out as a freeway and turned into a rural road. I knew I was way off so I found a cabby guy and he led me out of town and on the right road. It was a really nice road and I finally made it to Zacatecoluca and that is in El Salvador. It was getting late and I searched around for a hotel but couldn’t find one. I asked several people and finally found some military guys walking around with rifles and one of them knew some English and gave me directions in pigeon English/Spanish and we both laughed a lot. I did find it and it may be the only one in town. I am the only guest and it was ten bucks with the tv. The funny thing is that this tv is huge compared to the one in the 5 star hotel and I think it has just as many channels. I turned it on but had to unplug it to write this as the other plug in is in use for the fan. It is different country here. There are just louver windows and only sheets on the bed. Actually it only had one sheet, the bottom one but the gal brought me a top sheet, they must be expecting a cold night.
I walked up town and happened to find a place that taught English. I went in and visited with the owner who also teaches English in the local high school. He had one of his students there at the time and they are both really nice.
I went out looking for an internet place and ran into a big restaurant looking place. It was the first restaurant that I had seen here as most every body eats at these little stands along the street evidently. I may be in the wrong place for restaurants. Anyway it was a kitchen that was making 800 meals for some sort of meeting but one really nice guy had them make up a meal for me too. Chicken breast, rice, bread and a salad thing I didn’t eat. I have had enough salad for a while. He only charged me $2.50 which I thought was certainly reasonable.
I headed back to the hotel and happened to find an internet place just a block from the hotel. That is really weird as I asked all over town and nobody knew if there was one in town. I asked the guy when they opened in the morning and he said 9 or 9 thirty. If I wait that long I will try to post this.

11-27-05
I have had a little excitement this morning. I found that I have had my ‘real’ wallet stolen. Fortunately it didn’t have any money in it but it did have my real drivers licence as well as one debit card. Damn they are really good to have stolen that from me. I guess I should feel fortunate that they didn’t steal my ‘mugger’ wallet with the thirty bucks that I usually carry in it. I have a money clip that I carry more money in stashed in a different place. I usually don’t have my ‘real’ wallet with me but I had it on me while I went through the border. I have another bank debit card that I will use until I can figure out a way to get a new debit card sent to`` me. The problem is, where will I have it sent and when will I be there?

11-29-05


I spent two days in Zacatecoluca and I can say I really don’t like the town, or at lest the part of town that I saw. These people are extremely trashy. The sidewalks, gutters as well as the street were just covered with trash. I guess they must clean it up some time as it didn’t look weeks old but it was pretty disgusting when I was there.
The hotel was actually rather nice in that it was quiet most of the time. There were a few busses that came by that were noisy but not too early or late at night. One interesting thing about this place is that I was not given a key. I had to have the hotel gal open the room for me each time I came back from leaving my room. I asked for a key but she seemed happy to open the room for me.
The little internet shop just down the street was nice too. They had fairly good computers and a good fast line. I haven’t been even trying to hook my little laptop up anymore and just putting the |road log on the memory along with the photos I want to post to the blog site. It is a little irritating to have several kids in there playing games with the sound turned up as well at some rather loud music playing but with my ears, it doesn’t really bother me much.
I left Zacatecoluca fairly early in the morning and followed roughly along the coast. I probably should have taken a side trip to the actual coast, as I was never able to actually see the Pacific Ocean. The road was in great shape and the traffic light. I did pull into the town of Puerto Cutuco and found an internet shop to check my email. My friend Charlie has been working on getting my stolen debit card canceled and ordering me a replacement. I will have to find a place for him to send it to me somewhere in Puerto Rica or Panama?????
I started into more flat and faming country where I started seeing tractors again. I Haven’t seen tractors in quite awhile in the mountains. I am seeing a lot of sugar cane being grown as lots of grazing ground. In the hills I can see clear cuts so I guess they are farming up there on the hill sides too. I have seen lots of oxen carts too and kick myself for not going back and taking a photo of on of the carts right along side the road. It had a beautiful pair of oxen and the cart was out of almost biblical times. It had the solid wooden wheels with an iron tire around the circumference. It had wooden pole sides and it was a truly beautiful outfit. I sure like the speed that they travel at too, it is such a difference from what I am doing. I have a several year jump on him until the end of the oil, and then he will still be moving while I sit by the side of the road out of gas. That is one thing down here that if there is no gas, things will keep going on as they have and not come to a screeching halt as it will do in the usa.
When I got to the border region I first had to get out of El Salvador. A young man came up and said he would charge me a dollar to get me through the El Salvador border and a dollar to get me through the Honduras border. It was rather easy to get through the fist but the Honduras border was a freaking nightmare. The actual visa for myself to travel was fairly simple and only cost three dollars. The bike was a whole different matter. Those assholes just dollar ya to death. With double copies of everything and then more double copies and more money I paid well over a hundred bucks to get the bike across and into Honduras. I cant think of any bad words that totally would explain how pissed off I am at them. I spent about two hours getting through that border.
The only good thing about going through the border was that a guy I met back at Creel, Mexico was at the border crossing at the same time and going through the same bull shit I was. When I first met him he was traveling with a friend on a bmw but now he is traveling with his wife. They are from BC Canada and their names are Dan and Bonnie. They made it through the border before I did but I caught up with them not too far down the road where we both had to find an atm machine to replenish our money supply. It was really nice to have more than one person as Dan stayed with the bikes and Bonnie and I went to find the atm. When we came back Dan said that he counted 12 or 14 guys with rifles just on that one street corner. It is a little intimidating to have so many guys with rifles and dressed in camo or uniforms around with guns. I can’t imagine why they have so many as there couldn’t be anything of much value in that little town.
We continued down the highway and had to watch constantly for the huge potholes in the highway. When we left the border the road was great and we thought that all that money we gave them for road tax and stuff must be going to the nice roads. Well, after that first bike-eating pothole, I think we all changed our minds. The potholes were big and deep and would have killed a tire or bent a rim if we would have hit one.
One thing I have wanted to report but haven’t thought of until now, it that the trucks, busses and even some of the little vehicles just blow out huge clouds of black smoke. Ever since Mexico it has been very noticeable. I don’t know why that is as Estuardo said that the gas was supposed to be better in Guatemala but there must be something going on. It could be that they just lug they motors more but it doesn’t sound like they are lugging. They drive like racecar drivers given any chance and you would think they would roll those busses as fast as they take those corners.

Dan, Bonnie and I are staying over another day here at this place. We have nice rooms and it only cost me 110 Lempiras or about ten bucks a night. The room is plain for sure but it has a nice fan and if it gets cold I have a sheet I can put over me. The bathroom in the room has one handle for the water, no hot water, but who needs it? We went to the little restaurant here at the hotel for late breakfast and had rolled up pancakes with some sort of cream or something to pour over them as well as a cup of coffee. It is all different everywhere you go. Dan had a nice map of the central Americas and I borrowed it from him and went and had some copies made sections of it I will be traveling through. My map that I bought only covered the Mayan section so now I have paper maps of where I will be traveling through. I did finally get my gps unit working again. I found a wire that had been squashed and broken on the leads to the mount, so now I have that to help me although I was doing fine without it. It is nice to have a backup check and I find myself looking at it and preparing for major intersections. It seems to be following closer to the actual road than it was in Mexico. I think we will be traveling together at least for another day as we need to cross out of Honduras (assholes) and into Nicaragua. I guess I should say that the border people were assholes and I shouldn’t take it out on the people. The people I have come in contact with since then, have been very nice, even the cops. It will be great to have a friend at the border. Both Dan and Bonnie speak some Spanish, which helps a great deal. I still struggle along without much but trying the best I can.
Sorry about no photos this time, but for some reason it the computer asked me a bunch of questions in spanish of course and it will not let me add photos. i only had two i wanted to post anyway, one of Estuardo´s bike and another of the nice wide road in el salvador.

 

 

 

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